Day two with Marie Sawford

Today's Seminar was packed full of training tips. This is likely to get very long winded but I want to get as many tips here as possible for future reference. Marie said that for your competition puppy decide all of your signals for utility right away so that you don't inadvertently teach a conflicting signal that will be confusing when the dog is older.

We started out with Fronts for Puppies, Marie's theory is that a puppy that sits up tall will sit straight. First line yourself up to the puppy don't push and pull the puppy we want the puppy to love this spot, then let them nibble at some food from your hand, keep it high enough that the puppy needs to keep it's head up high without lifting his feet off the ground. Never tell the dog they're wrong when they are in front of you, this must remain the best place in the world. Try not to tower over the puppy ( that is very intimidating) bend your knees and lean back. You want them to always think about traveling in a straight line. Then step back and encourage the pup to return to the perfect spot and nibble, nibble, nibble.

Scent Discrimination for puppies, She started with different coloured tubes like mini m&m or mini skittles containers, pezz dispensers, metal tea balls. Create interest in the object, let the puppy see you fill it up with treats. If they show interest in the tube open it up and give a treat from your hand, toss it around, tease them with it, what ever it takes, rub your own scent on the tube and toss it in with a couple of empty tubes. If they pick up the wrong tube redirect them to the right one by moving it around. When the pick the right one get excited, open it up and feed from your hand. On to OPEN

Drop on Recall, Introduce early in the puppies life a drop from a stand with their elbows dropping first and a roll back in to down position. Once they understand what drop means teach them the correction( gently push down and back on the withers), do not reduce the food until you have a correction in place. Then do many drops in motion. Marie teaches the drop on recall using a target and clicker her theory is that it is hard to creep with their chin on the floor. If they want to pick it up anticipate this and click as he's approaching the target to interrupt the thought of picking it up. Feed the treat in the down motion as taught earlier they will quickly see target and drop on it. Once this happens now you can toss the treat past the target say get it so they are approaching you to drop on target. Once the behaviour is learnt add the drop command then fade out the target by cutting it smaller and smaller. Continue with this in many environments. Marie uses a different command for the come towards target then she uses front from drop to in front of her.

Dumbell, start with a dumbell that has a longer post. In competition a dumbell can be any material except metal. How can you tell if your dumbell is the wrong size? If the dog leaves a wet spot on the floor( a long streak, they are scooping it up, a round spot, they pick it up from the top and their nose is hitting). If they are picking it up with their teeth and then flipping it back. If they pick it up on the side. For a dog with big lips that get in the way try tapered ends and shorter post that push the lips out of the way so they don't bite their lips. Make sure there's no sharp corners that could poke them in the eye. Trouble shooting, A dog that kicks the dumbell with his feet, try your retrieves against a wall or in a V of chicken wire fence or have another person advance on the dumbell as the dog is approaching. Or do the retrieve around an object ( chair) For the dog that scans the crowd and comes back slow do the retrieve on leash and let the dog learn that the retrieve to you is the best part. Praise when the new action your teaching occurs, break off formal body posture by walking up and taking the dumbell from him so that you don't think your praising one action and the dog thinks your praising a different behaviour that you don't want.

to be continued........

Fun and Games a Marie Sawford Seminar

I went to a seminar presented by Marie Sawford in Belleville today. First on the agenda was Games for Obedience. We started with healing with a spin so the dog can relax and have fun. Spin the dog on your left and keep on walking, he has to hurry to catch up and give treat in heal position. Next was the Leg wrap, this game will tighten about turns and increase drive on right turns and outside circle of the figure 8. First teach the dog to wrap around your left leg and back to heal position then increase the challange by throwing in an about turn first followed by a leg wrap. Jump Back fronts was a fun way to work on straight fronts while keeping the dog's attitude up allowing for more repetitions.. With the recall game you toss food between your legs during your recall then take off running in the opposite direction, repeat 3 times then call your dog to front. You can also do this by throwing the dumbell between your legs on the third time or another variation is to add a drop on recall to the sequence. When healing we did some skipping the dogs loved this and some started skipping themselves. At a competition you can spin and skip to the start line or skip between exercises and even skip for your fast pace. To increase drive on our about turns we did a motivational about turn . As your dog is approaching the about turn rev them up by saying arrrrre youuuu reaaaaady then do your about turn and take off running when your dog catches up to you reward in heal position. Next Stand with your dog standing between your legs rev him up, then push him back and take off running again reward when he finds heal position. In the afternoon she showed us stuff for the competition puppy like tuck sits, back drops and kick back stands, with these the front feet do not move. Marie said to practice on slippery surfaces, on inclines or even on a pile of dog beds. for the stand practice at the top of the stairs. She even starts puppies with dumbell work, jumps and scent work. Tomorrow the seminar will continue with some foundation training and Open, Utility and Novice work. I can't wait.

Woo Hoo

Exciting news Blaster got best of Breed at the Port Hope(Pineridge) dog show giving him his final points needed to become a Canadian Champion. He was able to get all 10 points needed in 4 shows at Kawartha Kennel Club in July and Pineridge in Oct with 4 Best of Breeds in a row and Best Puppy in Group ta-boot. Ok enough with the gloating. O wait I also entered a Rally Trial Blaster got 2 legs towards his Novice title with a 195 and 191, and Tucker got 1 leg toward his Versatility title with a 191. Tucker now has his Master's Snooker Agility Dog of Canada Title. What a Great Summer.

Dancing with my dog

This week in Blaster's class we worked on the turn(swing) meaning we want the dog to turn away from us. Susan Garrett describes it well in her blog at http://susangarrettdogagility.com/2009/08/swinging-with-the-dog.html

because we never want the dog to break the plane of our shoulders we must turn our shoulders into the dog dropping the inside shoulder. I've decided I like the word swing better then turn with all the t words we are using so far my tongue is getting tied it might make it easier for blaster to hear the difference. We also worked on Get Out, and I don't me get out of the kitchen or get out from under my feet which i also use. Get Out meaning move further laterally away from me on a parallel line. We need to extend our arm and have our shoulders facing the dog, the article in dog sport described it as drawing a crayon line on the path we want the dog to take. The other thing we worked on was Go, meaning go ahead of us and take the obstacles in a straight line, with this we just kept throwing the toy under arm and saying go until the dog started anticipating the go and looked forward. Then you step it up by putting the toy in the other arm, swing arm, say go, when he looks forward toss the toy.

Shaping, pushing pulling

By meeting our dogs at the end of the tunnel and charging (leaning) forward we can get their speed up. Also conferging on their line to push them out to the tire so we can take the short cut.

Again by shaping their approach to the next jump we can take the off coarse teeter out of the picture.

Diane and her bullmastiff Gem demonstrate how a good plan comes together.

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Off coarse to tunnel

Here Lane is explaining how to push your dog out from the bottom of the Aframe and over a jump with a quick arm change and landing side front cross for a tighter turn and to prevent them from taking the off coarse tunnel.

Diane and Gemini executed the first 3 jumps very well with the positional cue and landing side front cross. You can clearly see here why Gem fell for the offcoarse tunnel trap when Diane was very late with her arm change. Lane said everything in her body was saying "Gem take the tunnel"

Jan was able to push Tess out to the jump and she performed the arm change on time but her body was still facing the tunnel and she didn't turn until Tess was almost in the tunnel. I didn't see this until I watched it in slow motion, wow it's amazing how tuned our dogs are to our body motion.

Now Jan and Tess perform the push out and pull back to the weaves perfectly.

Lane once again explains the push out and pull back move, the bungee affect seems to speed our dogs up ( a where ya going)

Masterminds Agility lesson 1

Here Lane is explaining options at the start line with an electronic timer to get a good angle of approach and shape the dogs path for a tight turn to the next jump, then with a landing side front cross you can give your dog a positional cue so your dog has no question as to what path to take.

Tess performed the first 2 jumps great with a tight turn but watch what happened as soon as Jan turned her back on Tess, she immediately disengaged and started sniffing(KEEP YOUR EYE ON THE DOG) Then Jan and Tess got their acts together and performed it perfectly

Last Sunday in the Barn

This is the last Sunday we will train in the barn until the fall, I'll miss that smelly, dusty,dirty place, at least when the mosquito's bite I will. I've finally realized today that I'll have to learn a whole new method of handling for Blaster than the handling methods I use on Tucker. Tucker always paces himself to what ever speed I'm traveling at and he tends to slow down in fear that he might do something wrong. So with him I need to constantly drive him forward using every method possible to keep him motivated to run faster like running into every pocket, charging him into every tunnel and meeting at the end of the tunnels and charging him out. Blaster has so much more speed and enthusiasm that I'll be able to work at a further distance but with the distance and speed I'll need to be extremely precise with my handling. Lane said it's like steering a race car compared to the family car, even the slightest turn of the wheel could send you into a tail spin.
In Tucker's class to set up the rear cross I needed to stay close to him on the previous turn and dig deep into the pocket so he can get out in front of me, then do a slight snake with my path and drive on an angle crossing behind him. In order to shape Tucker's approach to the Frame and take the luminous tunnel out of the picture I needed to set it up before the previous jump. To do this required me to go deep into the turn, decelerate(pull upright, like woo) and do a cha, cha, cha all at the same time( I really need to take dancing lessons because I'm pretty sure I have two left feet). Then when I do drive forward towards the Frame I'll make sure my shoulders are aimed at the corner of the Frame away from the tunnel.
Blaster's class, let me see now, we worked on setting up rear crosses and front crosses. I thought I needed to go into the pocket to babysit Blaster around the pinwheel but he completely surprised me by executing it so fast and leaving me behind making it impossible to put in a front cross. I had a could of had a V8 moment when Lane said that when walking a coarse that is set up like a grid I'll be able to position myself for a front cross in front of one jump and still be able to keep my eyes on my dog by lining myself up with the previous jump.
This week I need to work on some Susan Salo jumping with Blaster and his focus forward.

Miniature Squeaky Voiced Demons

Great class today in obedience, the crazy toys all over the floor where very distracting, but it's the strange sounds they made that had Blaster's ears just a spinning. Tucker taught Blaster how to swim today at squirrel creek although it wasn't long before he realized that if he stayed on shore Tucker would bring him the stick.
Yesterday I took Blaster for a walk around the outside of a school yard, we started at a safe distance from those miniature, squeaky voiced demons. O.k. across the street and a half a block away. I worked my way closer doing lots of obedience training, playing tug, doing tricks, I did everything I could think of to keep the situation happy and rewarding for Blaster, we almost got to the fence, of coarse there was a big bush so the kids didn't notice him, we where so close, then, one of those demons saw Blaster and charged to the fence yelling doggy, doggy. Well, Blaster put on his loudest I'm not afraid of you Bark but inside he's squealing holy shit what the heck is that, if I sound real mean maybe it will stay away. So we moved back and played some more tug. It looks like I'll need to repeat this process a couple more (dozen) times. I'm going to need to borrow some kids to play with my dog.
Blaster makes me laugh everyday, today he brought me my shoe all happy, and excited, when I put it on my foot he went and got the other one. Now I could of got mad at him for touching my shoes but instead I laughed and decided to get off my ass and go outside and play. Today my leaping lemur decided that tunnels are for jumping over, not going through. Who ever said Aussies can't fly?

PADOC fun Match

Blaster with his blankie, he kneads it with his toes and sucks on it. I thought he'd out grow this by now.
Today PADOC had their fun match, outside the ring Blaster was very distracted but once we got inside the Rally-O ring I was able to get his focus back on me and he performed wonderfully, some sits were a bit crooked. In the Novice Obedience ring he was very distracted. I need to get Blaster out in more public places to work on my obedience. My puppy that thought his whole world evolved around me and stayed within a 1 foot radius has grown up into a 9 month old teenager who realized there's a whole world out there. There's a fun match in Lindsay on the Thursday before the trial.
I have also found a hole in my early socialization that I now need to take action to remedy, Blaster is afraid of children with their little miniature bodies and funny voices, he thinks he needs to bark first, ask questions later. So tomorrow I'm off to stalk children just outside the school grounds with lots of treats and toys (for the dog, not the kids) Joan Watson from the seminar said I need to approach from a distance and as soon as Blaster sees the little scary kids I should click and treat before he gets a chance to bark, if I let him get to the point of barking the opportunity is lost because his arousal point is beyond reasoning. Hopefully through flooding and tapping into his love for food he will associate children with pleasure.
Blaster's Agility lesson was a great success we actually accomplished 9 obstacle in a row. LOL
What did I learn today?
If I straighten up more on a tight turn he will slow enough to collect himself so he doesn't knock the bar, then in order to get him to move out enough for me to get in a rear cross I need to lean forward, dig in and drive him forward.
With the fake front cross( or what ever they call it) I held it a little to long this slowed him down, I only needed to hold it for a spit second to get his attention and alter his course slightly.
Today by the end of the class Lane said we've fried Blaster's brain and it was time to quit. I have to remember to quit earlier. It's best to leave them wanting more.
On that note I'll leave you now, hopefully wanting more.

K9 Klubhouse Trial

I took Tucker to the K-9 Klubhouse Agility trial today. Our first run was Master Snooker, I turned him too tight on the first red jump and he knocked the Bar( inside "aaaah, o my god, think, think, ding, red jump, where the hell's the red jump) so we had to change plans and get another Red jump, then we got back on track OK, Frame jump, red jump, jump, front cross then oops he took the trap, tunnel instead of frame. and I heard that dreaded whistle. Next was Masters Standard it was going pretty smoothly until the lucky jump # 13, I needed to push tucker out to the Jump so I could get around another jump, he was going for it but I turned my shoulder a little to soon and he wasn't quite committed to the jump yet and he pulled off the jump to follow me ( good dog, bad handler) I need to work on reading tuckers commitment point of no return. I also need to work on his weave poles if I run with an upright body it slows him right down, if I get to far ahead of him he slows down, I need to stay back and lean forward like a speed skater.
Lastly was the Masters Jumpers coarse we had a great run he did all the tricky bits perfectly but when he slowed right down by the 4th tunnel I remembered and I stayed close to the exit so I could race him out of the tunnel and charge him into the next tunnel, that worked he came flying out of the next tunnel but I remembered to late and we had a clean run with 2 seconds over time. Over all I learned a lot today and came away with new things to work on. Diane and I might have looked like a couple of clowns fooling around out there but I had a lot of fun. Diane you might be faster but I still think I was right LOL.

Body Language: yours, Mine, Ours

I went to a seminar last Saturday from Joan Weston about dogs body language. It was very interesting the time just flew by. I brought Blaster as one of the demo dogs for dogs in play. He was very good as usual. There was also a small white dog and a 20 month old bull dog. when crated down stairs the sounds coming out of the bull dog where very strange and frightening to Blaster. When Blaster approached the Bull dog he stood quite tall, which is different for him he usually approaches a new dog from a low non threatening position. When the play began blaster tried to run through the crowd and hide under chairs to no avail so Joan put a six foot line on the bull dog so blaster could realize he could get away, This seemed to work as he kept approaching to test the waters, eventually he felt comfortable enough for a fun wrestle. As the dogs where going through this Joan pointed out the different body language signals the dogs were showing. When ever the white dog tried to hide behind the owner Joan told her to walk away so the dog isn't trapped in the corner with no exit. she said the humans should keep moving and you should keep calling the dogs out of play for a quick reward to keep things from getting out of hand.
With humans Verbal is our #1 means of communications, then appearance, then actions. but with dogs verbal is the least important, body movement is important, then Posture, then appearance and expression then verbal. They did a study where they recorded the sound of 3 different growls, one was a play growl, one was a stay out of my space grown and one was a possession of food growl, then they played the recording inside a covered crate and placed a yummy bone in a bowl in front of it, with the play growl every dog took the bone, with the stay out of my space growl a number of dogs still took the bone but with the possession grown hardly any dogs took the bone. the human could not tell the difference in the different growls. Verbal- watch your tone, play proofing games to find out your tendencies in training and don't move when you give a command. Say it, count to 3, make it happen, mark it, reward it. Appearance Dogs can pick up a number of facial expressions. they did a study to compare human raised wolfs with dogs and the wolfs did not pick up on the expressions but the dogs did. Posture, leaning in promotes freexing and avoidance leaning back promotes engagement and coming up. body movements does your dog watch your hands instead of listening to you voice. and last is context what is your dog's history in that situation or location. Social Pressure DON'T force a shy dog to engage you, keep training sessions short. and play at the end.
Calming signals or stress shutdown. Looking away, licking lips, hunching, freezing, yawning, paw raising, play bow, ground sniffing, rolling over. Eating is a barometer of anxiety( they won't eat).
When dog meets human. The human should go sideways to dog pet under the chin, look at the dog's paws or tail, not their eyes, interrupt petting every 15 seconds or so to allow the dog to leave. Don't pet the dog if they flip over for a tummy rub unless you know the dog well and they look soft and mushy. The Dog owners should, ask the people to wait a moment. if the dog is very social always call the dog and ask for attention or a simple behavior first before allowing greeting.
Put a command on greeting "Ok, go say hi" so that it isn't offered. Keep the interaction brief so the dog doesn't get to high, never allow the dog to pull to greet. If the dog is shy always ask the person to wait, call your dog and ask them if they " want to say he". Approach the person with them. If the dog avoids the person or backs up, then just end the interaction and allow them to leave. Teach a shy dog " go touch" or go say Hi" using targeting lids held next to the strangers leg. Two major indicators of stress of decision making is freezing and closed mouth. watch the position of the dogs ears eyes lips hackles and tail. to see if they are on the defensive or offensive.

Blaster & Tucker's first Blog

I thought I'd start a training blog to keep track of my pups training to help me keep track of what I need to work on